Finishing curved edges
If you’ve ever had to hem a curved edge, you’ll know how tricky it is to turn, press and stitch it so that it looks neat and tidy. Curved edges are tricky for a few reasons. They involve a bias grainline, which causes the fabric to stretch out. Also, depending on the kind of curve you are working with, whether it be concave or convex, the fabric edge will be longer or shorter in length compared to the area it is being folded to, indicated by the red dashed line in the following diagram...
In the instance of a concave curve where the fabric edge is shorter than the area it is folded to, the bias grainline will stretch, allowing you to manipulate the fabric. If it is a severe concave curve, you can clip the seam allowance to prevent puckering.
In the instance of a convex curve, the length of the fabric edge is longer than the area it is folding to, so you have to manipulate the fabric to make the lengths equal.
Here’s a tutorial for finishing curved edges.
Single Fold Hem
(I recommend that you finish the edge with a serge or zig-zag before starting. This demo is left unfinished so that you could see the stitches more clearly)
Sew a baste stitch 1/8” from the fabric edge, leaving a few inches of thread at one end.
Sew a second row of stitching at the intended seam allowance for the hem.
Pull on one of the thread tails from the stitch closest to the edge, drawing the fabric just enough so that the folded edge lays flat onto the fabric.
Distribute the gathers evenly and press.
Turn the fabric towards the wrong side, pressing along the second stitch line. This stitch acts as a folding guide and helps in achieving a crisp and even fold.
Topstitch the hem within the seam allowance.
Double Fold Hem
Sew a basting stitch ¼” away from the fabric edge. Sew a second-row ½” away from the fabric edge.
Turning the fabric towards the wrong side, press along the first ¼” stitch line.
This helps to create an even crisp line to fold along the stitch.
Press again along the ½” stitch line.
Topstitch along the hem within the seam allowance. Feel free to remove the stitching along the folded edge after the hem is complete.
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4 Responses
Oluwaseun
Your tutorial was helpful.
Adeline Harrison
Thank you SO MUCH for this tutorial!! I went to school for apparel design and they never taught us this trick. This saved me a huge headache last night while I was doing alterations for someone and had three asymmetrical hemlines to take up!! Definitely going to check out more of your posts :)
Adeline Harrison
Thank you SO MUCH for this tutorial!! I went to school for apparel design and they never taught us this trick. This saved me a huge headache last night while I was doing alterations for someone and had three asymmetrical hemlines to take up!! Definitely going to check out more of your posts :)
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Lilly
January 11, 2022
This was such an awesome tutorial. Change my life… absolutely brilliant. What a huge time saver and beautiful finish.
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Victory Patterns replied:
I’m so glad that the tutorial was helpful to you!