The type of seam that choose to sew can not only make a garment look beautiful from the inside out, but they can also enhance the life of a garment, as well as your pride in what you've made. This little guide will give you a basic rundown on a few seam finishes starting with the basics, and then we'll get into the fancy stuff! I'll give you some pointers as to when to use each seam finish. When you make clothing with beautiful seams, you'll be so much happier wearing it!
Zig Zag: A plain seam needs to have a zig-zag stitch or serge along the raw fabric edges to prevent fabric fraying and to improve the longevity of your garment.
Stitched & Pinked: A plain seam finish used as an alternative to a zig-zag finish. Suitable for fabric with a tighter weave that does not unravel easily.
Materials: Pinking shears
Turned & Stitched: Another way to finish the edges of a plain seam. This finish is most suitable for light to medium weight woven fabrics. The technique for sewing with straight and curved seams vary.
French Seam: An encased seam that is ideal for delicate and sheer fabrics. The raw edge is enclosed to prevent the fabric from fraying. This seam also gives a professional finish to your garment. Avoid using this seam finish with curved seams as it will buckle. Suitable for light to medium weight fabrics.
After constructing the seam, you will not be able to alter the fit of the piece along this seam.
Fake French Seam: Used when a French seam is desired, but you want the ability to adjust for fit. To make life easier, make sure the garment fits you just the way you want it before proceeding past step 1.
Self Bound Edge: A clean finished seam. This seam works best with lightweight fabrics that do not fray easily.
Bias Bound Seam Finish: This is the most simple bound finish. Used commonly on unlined coats and jackets, or along hem or facing edges. You can purchase bias binding or create your own from lightweight fabric.
Materials: Double fold bias binding or self-made binding
Hong Kong Seam Finish: An alternative to bias bound finish and used for the same purpose.
Materials: 1 ½” bias binding or self-bias binding
Flat Felled: This seam gives a clean finish to both sides of the garment. It adds durability to the seam and decreases abrasion. There is one row of stitching on the outside of the seam. Commonly used in denim and sportswear.
Slot Seam: A decorative seam where a strip of matching or contrasting fabric is added to the underside of the seam. Either side of the seam is topstitched onto the under layer, and the basting stitch from the first seam is removed to reveal the backing strip underneath the finished seam edges.
Materials: Contrast fabric
I'm so excited to welcome the newest pattern collection to our line! The Arima capsule collection consists of three PDF patterns, Esther, Frances, and Samara, that are designed to work beautifully together, allowing you to create many stylish, comfortable outfits with ease.