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Tutorial

Finishing edges with bias binding

January 04, 2018

Hey, let's talk about one of the best edge finishing techniques ever: Bias Binding!!! Who, what, when, where, why is binding you ask?!? Binding is a bias cut strip of fabric with pre-folded edges. The fact that it’s bias cut makes it ideal for finishing curved edges. 

For our edge finishing purposes in this tutorial, I'd recommend using 1/4" - 1/2" width binding.

Single and double fold bias binding

You can buy single or double fold binding in many widths and colors. Single fold binding will not be visible on the outside of the garment, whereas double fold binding will be. So if you're going for a clean look, single fold might be your best bet. Double-fold binding is excellent, too and you can use it as a contrast detail by using a contrasting color binding.

You can also make binding in your own fabric by cutting a bias strip and folding it in the same way that a binding strip is folded. Making your own binding is especially great for double-fold binding if you intend to use a specific contract fabric.

If you're using one of my patterns, I provide bias strip pattern pieces for all finished edges, but you can use binding in place of these. The benefit of that is that it can save fabric.

Let's talk about single fold binding first. Here goes...

                                                                                                                                                                               
Single Fold Binding 
                                                                                                                                                                             
Pinning single fold bias binding to fabric
Open the binding, and pin it along the edge to be finished. But wait!
You'll need to consider two things first:

1. "What is the seam allowance of the garment edge?

2. "What is the folded seam allowance of the binding?"

You need to consider this because they may not have the same seam allowance. You may have a 1/2" seam allowance on the garment edge and 1/4" on the binding. Either way, just may sure when pinning the binding that the fold line falls on the seam allowance line along the garment edge.
                                                                                                                                                                               
sewing single fold bias binding to fabric and trimming excess seam allowance

Sew along the folded line. Trim excess seam allowance to the width of the binding edge. 

                                                                                                                                                                               

 

 Pressing seam allowance towards binding

Press the seam allowance towards the binding.

                                                                                                                                                                               

Single fold binding pressed netly from right side of garment
Make sure the press is neat from the right side of the garment. An extra press from this side may be necessary. 

                                                                                                                                                                               

Binding turned towards wrong side of garment
  Now, turn and the whole binding over to the wrong side of the fabric and press along the outer edge.
                                                                                                                                                                               
Binding turned and pinned towards wrong side of garment
Pin the binding in place.
                                                                                                                                                                               

Sewing the single fold binding
Sew along the edge at approximately 1/8" seam allowance.
                                                                                                                                                                               
The finished single fold binding

Isn't it heavenly?

                                                                                                                                                                               

                                                                                                                                                                               Double Fold Binding 
                                                                                                                                                                             

                                                       

Double fold binding
Double-fold is similar but different. With store-bought binding, the first thing you need to know is that one edge extends just slightly past the other. The purpose of this extension is to ensure that the underside of the binding is secured in the final stitch. The underside extension will without a doubt extend past this final stitch line and will be easily sewn into the final stitch. Hang tight, we'll get there. Just know that when you're starting out, the shorter folded side of the binding is the one that you pin to the garment first.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           
Pinning double fold binding to fabric edge
Pin the binding along the fabric edge. Pay attention to the seam allowance variance as mentioned in the single fold binding.
                                                                                                                                                                               
                                                                                                                                                                               
                                                                                                                                                                               Sewing double fold binding to fabric edge
Sew along the folded line.  If necessary, trim excess seam allowance to the width of the binding edge.
                                                                                                                                                                               
Pressing seam allowance
Press the seam allowance towards the binding.
                                                                                                                                                                               
Pressing seam on right side of gamrent
Make sure the press is neat from the right side of the garment. An extra press from this side may be necessary.
                                                                                                                                                                               
Folding binding in half and pressing
Fold one side of the binding over to the wrong side of the garment. Make sure that the stitch line is covered. Press if necessary.
                                                                                                                                                                               
Sewing in the ditch of the seam to secure underside of binding
Stitch in the ditch along the binding.
Place your needle in the crack between the garment fabric and the binding. Sew along this "ditch" so that your stitch will be concealed. By sewing in the ditch, you are going to secure the underside of the binding as it extends past this point. 
                                                                                                                                                                               
Sewing double fold binding
Sewn double fold binding
Voila! sewing binding is a mystery no more!

 

 

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