Finishing the Sofia Dress

September 03, 2020

Welcome back to the Sofia sew-along. In this post we'll be sewing the skirt and attaching it to the bodice. This is the final post in the series, marking the end of the project!

In the last post in this series, we added pockets to the skirt. If you followed along with that post, then your skirt side seams have been sewn. If you have chosen not to add pockets, then we still need to construct the skirt side seams. I also have a note on lining below, but this too is optional. Let's get started...

 

Skirt Side Seams:

  • Align and pin the skirt pieces right sides together along the side edges. Pin and sew together at 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance.
  • Finish the seam allowance with a serge or zig-zag stitch.

    Lining:

    • To construct the skirt lining, follow the previous steps sewing the skirt side seams
    • Insert the constructed lining layer into the skirt's outer layer, matching the wrong sides together.
    • Align the waistline, matching side seams, and center notches. Baste the layers together at 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.

    Attach skirt to bodice:

    • Set your sewing machine up for the shirring stitch.
    • Sew a single line of shirring along the waistline edge of the skirt. Sew with the right side of the skirt facing up at 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance.

    • With the right sides together, align the bodice and skirt units along the waistline edge. To properly orient the pieces, turn the bodice wrong side out, and turn the skirt right side out. Flip the bodice upside down and insert the skirt through the bodice's neck opening.

     

      • Pin the waistline edges together at the side seams and center notches. In between the side seam and center notches, continue to pin the pieces together along the waistline. As you pin, match the shirring stitch line closest to the bodice's waistline edge to the shirring stitch line along the skirt's waistline.

      • Set your sewing machine up for regular sewing.
      • Sew the pieces together along waistline at a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Work with the skirt uppermost and follow the line of shirring sewn along the skirt's waist edge.

      • Finish the edge of the waistline with a serge or zig-zag stitch.

      • Refer to the Elastic Chart. Cut one length of 1/4" (1 cm) width elastic for the waistline, according to your size.

        Fitting tip: Before applying the elastic to the dress, test the fit along your waistline. It should be snug, but comfortable. Adjust the length if necessary.
        • Overlap the ends of the elastic by 1/2" (1.3 cm). Using a zig-zag stitch, secure the ends of the elastic together. Make sure that the elastic is not twisted as the ends are sewn together.

        • Divide the elastic into four sections of equal length, using pins to mark each section.

        • Divide the skirt waistline into four equal sections, marking each section with a pin.

        • Apply the elastic to the waistline seam. Match the four sections of the elastic and the skirt waistline together. Pin the elastic to the waistline at these points.

        • The elastic should not cover the stitch line from the waist seam. It should sit on the seam allowance, alongside the seam.
        • Sew the elastic to the waistline using a zig-zag stitch. As you sew, evenly distribute the length of the elastic along the waistline.

        • Turn the dress right side out. Gently press the waistline seam, hovering the iron over the seam.

        Hem:

        • Turn the hem edge of the skirt towards the wrong side by 1/2"
          (1.3 cm) and press. Turn the edge in again by 1/2" (1.3 cm) and press.
        • Edgestitch the hem, sewing approximately 1/8" (3 mm) from the edge at a scant 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance.
        • Press the finished hem.
        • Repeat the steps for the lining hem.

        And that marks the end of your sewing adventure with the Sofia dress - Congratulations!

        If you'd like to share it with us on Instagram, you can use the hashtag #sofiapattern and tag me at @victorypatterns. 

        I hope you love your new creation, and I that you've learned some new skills along the way! 





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