JACKIE SEW ALONG - CONSTRUCTION DAY FOUR VERSION ONE

January 06, 2018

 Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

Today is the final day of the Jackie sewalong!!! I bet you're eager to finish your projects! Since there are two versions of the Jackie dress, we've split up the tutorial into two parts. The first post will walk you through version one of the dress and will cover the sleeve construction. The second post will be for version two, which will cover how to sew an armhole facing for a sleeveless dress.

In this post for version one of the dress, we will learn how to sew a knit sleeve, sew the dress side seams and we'll talk about two methods for sewing the hem. And finally, we'll sew on the buttons! 

Let's get started!

SLEEVES:

Pre-press your sleeve hem allowance. 

Turn the hem edge over towards the wrong side of the sleeve by 3/4" (2 cm). Press along the folded edge. 

Turn the folded hem allowance. We'll come back to this later in the project.

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 

 

It's time to sew the sleeve into the armhole. We'll stary by figuring out the orientation of the sleeves.

Lay the dress right side up. Lay the sleeve right side up alongside the dress armhole.

The front of the sleeve is indicated with a single notch along the armhole while the back sleeve is indicated by a double notch. When laying the sleeve down, make sure that that the front and back orientation is correct.

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 
To make sure that the correct sleeve is placed alongside the coordinating armhole, ensure that the double and single notches align.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Now, flip the sleeve onto the dress so that the right sides of fabric are facing.
Align the notch found at the top cap (middle) of the sleeve to the dress's shoulder seam.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Match the sleeve to the end of the armhole and match the notches at.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
From the sleeves double or single notch to the shoulder, ease the sleeve into the armhole as you pin.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Repeat for the other side of the sleeve. 
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 

 

Sew the sleeve to the dress. Make sure the the shoulder seam is turned towards the back of the dress as you sew.

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 

Check the sleeve seam for any puckers to could have fromed during sewing. If puckers have formed, it is because the sleeves was not eased into the armhole of the dress evenly. To fix this, simply tear the stitch surrounding the puckered area and ease thae fabric as you re-stitch the seam in that spot.

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 

Lightly press the seam allowance towards the sleeve. It helps to use a tailors ham to do this as you can  use the shape of the ham to build shape into the shoulder.

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 

SIDE SEAMS:

Fold the Dress Front and Back right sides together and match the side edges. 

The first place to match is the underarm seam. Make sure that the front and back of the dress align properly at this seam and pin here.

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 
Continue to pin the dress together  along the side edges.
Stitch the sides together starting at the hem and sewing towards the sleeve.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 

HEMMING:

Before sewing your hem, slip on your dress and determine if you need to make a length adjustment. The Jackie dress has a hem allowance of 3.4" (2 cm), so if you decide to trim off some length, make sure to leave a hem allowance. 

 

TWIN NEEDLE HEM FINISH:

Turn the hem towards to the wrong side of the dress by 3/4" (2 cm). I like to use a seam gauge and measure as I press.

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 
Pin the hem allowance in place. For a twin needle finish, the pins should be on the right side of the dress.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
With your machine set up with the twin needle, begin the stitch at one of the side seams. Sewing onto the right side of the fabric, use a seam allowance of 5/8" (1.6 cm).
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Press the finished hem.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 

SERGE AND STITCH HEM:

Finish the hem with a serge stitch.

Turn the hem towards to the wrong side of the dress by 3/4" (2 cm). I like to use a seam gauge and measure as I press.

Pin the hem allowance in place. For a serge and stitch hem, the pins should be on the wrong side of the dress.

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 
Use a regular zig-zag stitch to sew the hem. Use a seam allowance of 5/8" (1.6 cm).
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
And we've saved the best part for last...

 

BUTTONS:

I love finishing touches on a garment. It feels like a cherry on top of a cake, so I like to save it until the very end!

Use the thread tacks along your Back Facing to determine the location of your buttons. 

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns BlogJackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Secure three 3/8" ball and shank buttons to each location.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 

Congratulations!!!! You are finished your Jackie dress!

I hope you had fun on this little sewing adventure. We would LOVE to hear from you to learn about how it went, find out what you learned from this series and to see your creation! If you post your dress on social media, make sure to tag us @victorypatterns and use the hashtag #jackiedresspattern. You can also contact us through the contact form and send us an email.

Thanks for joining in and being a part of this sewalong! Now go out and paint the town red in your beautiful new dress!

 

 

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