JACKIE SEWALONG - CONSTRUCTION DAY FOUR VERSION TWO

January 06, 2018

 

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

Today is the final day of the Jackie sewalong!!! I bet you're eager to finish your projects! Since there are two versions of the Jackie dress, we've split up the tutorial into two parts. The first post will walk you through version one of the dress and will cover the sleeve construction. The second post will be for version two, which will cover how to sew an armhole facing for a sleeveless dress.

In this post for version 2 of the dress, we will learn how to finish an armhole with binding, sew the dress side seams and we'll talk about two methods for sewing the hem. And finally, we'll sew on the buttons! 

Let's get started!

 

ARMHOLE FACING:

Fold the armhole binding in half, widthways with wrong sides together and press.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Place the dress with the right side facing up. 
With right sides together, match the binding to the dress armhole, aligning the unfinished edges. 
Match the ends of the Facing to either end of the dress armhole.
Align the notch found in the middle of the Facing to the shoulder seam.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Pin the Facing along the armhole, easing in the stretch evenly as you pin. 
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Sew the Facing in along the armhole.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Make sure that the shoulder seam is facing the back of the dress.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Press the Facing and the seam allowance away from the dress.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Turn the Facing over towards the wrong side of the armhole and press along the finished edge. This press is to prepare for when we turn the Facing over in a later step when
This press is to prepare the Facing for when we turn it over in a later step. We will now need to turn the Facing away from the garment once again.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
With the binding turned away from the garment, match the side seam of the Front and Back Dress right sides together. Carefully match the Facing seam at either side. 
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Pin the side edges together at this point.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Secure the Facing seam alignment together by sewing a short baste stitch through the Facing edges.
To do this precisely, use your hand wheel to insert the machine needle into the fabric at the Facing seam. Once the needle is in the fabric, drop the pressure foot and remove the pin.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
This small baste stitch will ensure that the Facing seam will be neatly aligned when the side seam is sewn.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Pin the remaining sides of the dress Front and Back together.
Sew the side seam and Facing with your sewing machine or serger. Sew from the hem towards the binding.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Press the seam allowance towards the Dress Back.
Attaching the armhole binding
 
Turn the binding towards the inside of the dress and pin.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Edge stitch the Facing in place using a regular zig-zag stitch or a twin needle. 
For this step, I like to work on the wrong side of the armhole facing me. This way I can see the edge of the Facing. Keep a consistent seam allowance of approximately 3/8"- 1/2" (1-1.3 cm) when sewing the edge stitch. 
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
I also like to begin and end my edge stitch at the underarm, which is the most inconspicuous place.
 
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns BlogAttaching the armhole binding
 
Press the finished armhole.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 

 

 HEMMING:

Before sewing your hem, slip on your dress and determine if you need to make a length adjustment. The Jackie dress has a hem allowance of 3.4" (2 cm), so if you decide to trim off some length, make sure to leave a hem allowance. 

TWIN NEEDLE HEM FINISH:

Turn the hem towards to the wrong side of the dress by 3/4" (2 cm). I like to use a seam gauge and measure as I press.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Pin the hem allowance in place. For a twin needle finish, the pins should be on the right side of the dress.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
With your machine set up with the twin needle, begin the stitch at one of the side seams. Sewing onto the right side of the fabric, use a seam allowance of 5/8" (1.6 cm).
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
Press the finished hem.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 

SERGE AND STITCH HEM:

Finish the hem with a serge stitch.

Turn the hem towards to the wrong side of the dress by 3/4" (2 cm). I like to use a seam gauge and measure as I press.

Pin the hem allowance in place. For a serge and stitch hem, the pins should be on the wrong side of the dress.

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
Use a regular zig-zag stitch to sew the hem. Use a seam allowance of 5/8" (1.6 cm).
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

And we've saved the best part for last...

 

BUTTONS:

I love finishing touches on a garment. It feels like a cherry on top of a cake, so I love to save it until the very end!

Use the thread tacks along your Back Facing to determine the location of your buttons. 

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog
 
Secure three 3/8" ball and shank buttons to each location.
Jackie Dress Sewalong - Victory Patterns Blog

 

Congratulations!!!! You are finished your Jackie dress!

I hope you had fun on this little sewing adventure. We would LOVE to hear from you to learn about how it went, find out what you learned from this series and to see your creation! If you post your dress on social media, make sure to tag us @victorypatterns and use the hashtag #jackiedresspattern. You can also contact us through the contact form and send us an email.

Thanks for joining in and being a part of this sewalong! Now go out and paint the town red in your beautiful new dress!

 

 

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