Lola Sewalong: Constructing the upper dress
Today is the first construction day of the Lola dress. We will start by constructing the upper portion of the dress. Let's dive right in!
Reminder: Seam allowance for this project is 3/8" (1 cm).
Upper Dress Construction:
Step 1 / Triangle
- Place the Triangle piece (C) onto the Upper Front Center (A) piece. You'll want to make sure both pieces are facing right side up, and that the Triangle is centred along the neckline.
You can use the notches cut along the centre front of the piece to help with this.
- Pin the Triangle in place.
- Set your machine to a regular zig-zag stitch. (refer to the "sewing with stretch" post for more information on settings).
- Edge-stitch the triangle in place. I aim to encase the edge of the triangle in the zig-zag stitch. To do this, make sure the needle passes just over the edge of the triangle.
- Pivot when you reach the centre corner and remove pins as you sew.
Upper Body Panels:
- Place the upper Front Centre (A) and Upper Side (B) piece right side facing up. The short edge of the Upper Side (B) piece will align with the side edge of the Upper Front Centre (A) piece.
- Pin pieces right sides together along these edges, matching notches.
- Due to the varying shapes of the curves, you will need to ease the pieces together as you pin.
- Pin the other Upper Side (B) piece to the remaining edge of the Upper Front Center (A) piece.
- Sew the pieces together.
- With the right sides together, pin the Upper Side (B) pieces to the upper Back (D) piece. Match notches, pin, and sew.
- Sew the pieces together.
- Lightly press the seam allowance, turning all seams towards the Upper Side (B) pieces.
- For each sleeve, turn the piece to face the right sides together and sew the sleeve seam.
- Turn the sleeves right side out. You will have one left and one right sleeve. You'll notice that there are double and single notches along the edge that connects to the body. The single notches indicate the front of the sleeve, and the double notches indicate the back of the sleeve. Single and double notches are important in helping to determine the left and right sleeve, and the orientation of pieces when attaching to the bodice.
- Lay the sleeves next to the upper dress. Make sure that single and double notches will match when the pieces are sewn together.
- Turn the upper dress wrong side facing out. Leave the sleeves turned right side out. Insert the sleeves into the upper dress; This allows us to match the right sides of the fabric together. Pin the sleeve along the upper dress armhole, matching notches and aligning fabric edges.
- Sew the sleeve along the armhole. Turn the upper dress right sides out.
Voila! Your upper dress is now complete!
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