Lola sewalong: Basic Pattern Adjustments

November 18, 2019 0 Comments

Yesterday we took our measurements, selected our size, and determined if pattern adjustments are necessary.

The pattern adjustments we'll discuss in this post are:

  • Grading between sizes
  • Lengthening/shortening.

These adjustments will be made to the pattern before cutting out your fabric. 

In tomorrow's post, we'll take a look at how to make small and full bust adjustments.

Grading Between Sizes: 

If your bust, waist, and hip measurements fall between two or three sizes, we will grade between sizes to customize for the best fit.

Here are some examples of size charts where grading in between sizes is required, and tips on how I suggest selecting your sizes based on these instances.

 

Example A: Bust Size 8, Waist 10, Hips, 12.

Sizes to grade:

In an instance where your sizes progressively increase from the bust towards the hip, you will want to adhere to the measurements circled on the size chart when grading between sizes.

Grading between sizes

Example B: Bust Size 8, Waist 6, Hips, 4.

Sizes to grade:

If your sizes progressively decrease from the bust towards the hip, select your bust and waist size based on the chart measurements for these sizes. Select your hip size based on the waist size; This is so that the silhouette of the garment is maintained. 

Grading between sizes Victory Patterns

 

Example C: Bust Size 8, Waist 6, Hips, 10.

Sizes to grade:

In an instance where your bust and waist size progressively decrease, but your hip size is larger than your bust size,

Option 1: You can adhere to the measurement circles on the size chart; This will give a more hourglass silhouette.

 

Grading between sizes Victory Patterns

Option 2: You can select your waist size based on your bust size and grade to the hip size; This will give a slightly more relaxed fit at the waist.

Grading between sizes Victory Patterns

 

Example E: Bust Size 8, Waist 10, Hips, 6.

Sizes to grade:

If your bust and waist size progressively increase, but your hip size is smaller than your bust size, select your bust and waist sizes based on the chart measurements for these sizes. Select your hip size based on the waist size; This is so that the silhouette of the garment is maintained. 

Grading between sizes Victory Patterns

Now that we've decided on the sizes that you will be grading between, consider that everything above the bust will be based on the bust size.

For example, if your bust size is 8, the sleeve, cuff, and neckband will be 8.

From the bust, we will transition to your waist and hip size on all pieces.

Any corresponding or adjoining pieces will be selected based on the size of their adjoining edge.

 

Example 1: 

Your waist size is 10. 

The waist area of the upper dress pieces will be size 10. 

The waist area of the lower dress pieces will be size 10

 

Example 2: 

If your hip size is 12, the hem band will also be size 12.

 

Grading Between Sizes Tutorial:

I'll use the following sizes for this tutorial: Bust -8, Waist - 10, Hip - 12.

Regardless of the sizes, the method of adjustment is the same.

 

  • The upper dress pieces show a transition from size 8 at the bust, to size 10 at the waist. After I pass the bust curve, I'm gradually blending the line to meet size 10 at the waist. 
  • I'm cutting a size 8 neckband to correspond with my bust size, as everything above the bust is a size 8.

    Lola Grading between Sizes

    • The lower dress pieces show a transition from size 10 at the waist, to size 12 at the hip line on all pieces. When blending sizes, I'm aiming to maintain the original shaping of the pattern as much as possible.

    Lola Grading between Sizes

    • Place the Pocket piece (F) overtop the Lower Side (H) piece and trace the adjusted lines on the pocket.
    • At the upper edge of the pocket, maintain the original shaping; This is the hem edge, and once turned, must match the shaping of the piece.

    Lola Grading between Sizes

     

    Lengthening/shortening:

    Note: If you are lengthening your pattern pieces, you will need to purchase additional fabric.

    You will find lengthen/shorten lines on all upper and lower body pieces of the Lola pattern.

    Upper Adjustment Lines:
    The lengthen/shorten line on the upper dress pieces (A, B, D) will be used to adjust the length of the upper portion of the dress. If your back length measurement that is less/greater than the finished garment back length measurement for your selected size.

     

    Calculate your adjustment amount:
    To determine the amount to lengthen/shorten the upper bodice, calculate the difference between your personal back length and the pattern's back length for your size.

    This adjustment will also affect the overall length of the dress.

    Lower Adjustment Lines:

    If you simply want to adjust length of the dress *where the hem falls on you), but want to maintain the waistline level as-is, use the lengthen/shorten line on the lower dress pieces (G, H, I)

    Shortening:

    • Mark your adjustment measurement above the lengthen/shorten line (I mark from the upper line) on your upper dress pattern pieces. Piece D is shown here. Follow these steps for pieces A and B as well. In the diagram below, this line is shown in blue.
    • Fold the pattern at the lengthen shorten line (folding at the upper line), and bring it to meet with the blue line. Tape the lower portion of the pattern at this new position.
    • Depending on the shape of your pattern piece, you may need to insert tissue paper behind the pattern to adjust the shaping at the sides. 
    • Connect the pattern edge, forming a new smooth line that resembles the original line of the pattern (circled in red).

      Lola shortening

      Lengthening:

      • Cut the pattern pieces along the lengthen/shorten line. Tape the upper portion of the pattern to a piece of tissue.
      • Measure down from the cut edge of the pattern by your desired lengthening amount. At this measurement, draw a line parallel to your cut edge.
      • Attache the lower portion of the pattern, aligning the cut edge to your newly drawn line. 
      • For pieces that are cut on the fold, make sure that the centre front/back edge is perfectly aligned. For pieces that have a regular grainline, use the grainline to ensure that the pieces are perfectly aligned. (Shown by a blue line, circled in red)

        Lengthening

        Note: In the next Sewalong post, we'll discuss how to make a full and small bust adjustment. See on on Wednesday, November 20th






        Also in The Victory Patterns Blog

        Free Face Mask Pattern
        Free Face Mask Pattern

        March 29, 2020 0 Comments

        Hi guys! I hope you're keeping safe and healthy during this crazy time. After a bit of tweaking a few masks patterns, I've found a fit and style that I really like and I wanted to share it with you, in case you'd like to make masks for yourself, or your community. 

        This mask features a center seam that has shaping to accommodate the nose and chin. It also has two two layers of fabric, and a slot for a filter to be placed between layers. 

        View full article →

        The Madrid Tote
        The Madrid Tote

        February 26, 2020 0 Comments

        Hello, my dear friends! I have something that I'm so excited to share with you today! I've just released the Madrid Tote pattern today! I wanted to share it with you as a thank you gift for following along with me, subscribing to my newsletter, and supporting my biz! You guys make it possible for me to do my dream job, and your enthusiasm is always a source of inspiration for me. 

        View full article →

        Sloane Bust Adjustments
        Sloane Bust Adjustments

        January 23, 2020 0 Comments

        Sloane features a fitted bodice with a princess seam, which is my favorite for fitting the bust area! Having a seam over the bust makes modifications to this area a pleasure.

        In this tutorial, I'll show you how to create a full and small bust adjustment for this style. I'll show you the quick and dirty method for those of you who have just a little bit to add or take away, and I'll also walk you through the traditional approach to a bust adjustment for this style.

        View full article →