Hey, let's talk about one of the best edge finishing techniques ever: Bias Binding!!! Who, what, when, where, why is binding you ask?!? Binding is a bias cut strip of fabric with pre-folded edges. The fact that it’s bias cut makes it ideal for finishing curved edges.
For our edge finishing purposes in this tutorial, I'd recommend using 1/4" - 1/2" width binding.
You can buy single or double fold binding in many widths and colors. Single fold binding will not be visible on the outside of the garment, whereas double fold binding will be. So if you're going for a clean look, single fold might be your best bet. Double-fold binding is excellent, too and you can use it as a contrast detail by using a contrasting color binding.
You can also make binding in your own fabric by cutting a bias strip and folding it in the same way that a binding strip is folded. Making your own binding is especially great for double-fold binding if you intend to use a specific contract fabric.
If you're using one of my patterns, I provide bias strip pattern pieces for all finished edges, but you can use binding in place of these. The benefit of that is that it can save fabric.
Let's talk about single fold binding first. Here goes...
Single Fold Binding
Open the binding, and pin it along the edge to be finished. But wait!
You'll need to consider two things first:
1. "What is the seam allowance of the garment edge?
2. "What is the folded seam allowance of the binding?"
You need to consider this because they may not have the same seam allowance. You may have a 1/2" seam allowance on the garment edge and 1/4" on the binding. Either way, just may sure when pinning the binding that the fold line falls on the seam allowance line along the garment edge.
Sew along the folded line. Trim excess seam allowance to the width of the binding edge.
Press the seam allowance towards the binding.
Make sure the press is neat from the right side of the garment. An extra press from this side may be necessary.
Now, turn and the whole binding over to the wrong side of the fabric and press along the outer edge.
Pin the binding in place.
Sew along the edge at approximately 1/8" seam allowance.
Isn't it heavenly?
Double Fold Binding
Double-fold is similar but different. With store-bought binding, the first thing you need to know is that one edge extends just slightly past the other. The purpose of this extension is to ensure that the underside of the binding is secured in the final stitch. The underside extension will without a doubt extend past this final stitch line and will be easily sewn into the final stitch. Hang tight, we'll get there. Just know that when you're starting out, the shorter folded side of the binding is the one that you pin to the garment first.
Pin the binding along the fabric edge. Pay attention to the seam allowance variance as mentioned in the single fold binding.
Sew along the folded line. If necessary, trim excess seam allowance to the width of the binding edge.
Press the seam allowance towards the binding.
Make sure the press is neat from the right side of the garment. An extra press from this side may be necessary.
Fold one side of the binding over to the wrong side of the garment. Make sure that the stitch line is covered. Press if necessary.
Stitch in the ditch along the binding.
Place your needle in the crack between the garment fabric and the binding. Sew along this "ditch" so that your stitch will be concealed. By sewing in the ditch, you are going to secure the underside of the binding as it extends past this point.
When it comes time to finish the inside edges of a garment, such as the inner edge of a waistband, cuff, collar, binding, etc, you can choose to secure the edge with a hand stitch or a machine stitch technique known as stitching in the ditch. This tidy stitch is fast compared to a hand sewn slip stitch and can save you a good bit of time.
In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to sew a gather stitch, how to take up the gathers and finally, how to attach the gathered edge to a corresponding piece. This gathering method explains how to sew a gather stitch with three rows of basting, which is suitable for larger gathered edges or for full gathers. This tutorial is taken from the pages of Boundless Style. You can find this tutorial and many others in Boundless Style.
The type of seam that choose to sew can not only make a garment look beautiful from the inside out, but they can also enhance the life of a garment, as well as your pride in what you've made. This little guide will give you a basic rundown on a few seam finishes starting with the basics, and then we'll get into the fancy stuff! I'll give you some pointers as to when to use each seam finish. When you make clothing with beautiful seams, you'll be so much happier wearing it!
avana
May 25, 2021
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