How to stitch in the ditch

January 31, 2018 1 Comment


When it comes time to finish the inside edges of a garment, such as the inner edge of a waistband, cuff, collar, binding, etc, you can choose to secure the edge with a hand stitch or a machine stitch technique known as stitching in the ditch. This tidy stitch is fast compared to a hand sewn slip stitch and can save you a good bit of time.

This technique works by stitching through the crack of the stitch on the right side of the garment while securing the under-layer in place on the wrong side. This results in a clean finished edge on the inside while creating an invisible stitch on the outside of the garment

Here’s how it’s done...

In this example, we will be demonstrating the technique by finishing a neckline with a bias binding. This technique can also be used for finishing a waistband, cuff, placket, etc.

 

    Stitch in the ditch - Victory Patterns


    • Press the unfinished outer edge of the binding in towards the wrong side. This edge should be pressed approximately 1⁄8" (3 mm) less than the final seam allowance for this edge. For example, if the neckline seam allowance is 3⁄8" (1 cm), this edge of the binding should be pressed at 1⁄4" (6 mm).

    Stitch in the ditch - Victory Patterns


    • On the wrong side of the garment, cover the stitch line of the garment’s seam with the pre-pressed edge. The pressed binding edge should cover the stitch line, extending past the stitch by approximately 1⁄8" (3mm). Pin the edge in place.

    Stitch in the ditch - Victory Patterns


    • The folded edge should be neatly pinned along the seam so that it covers the stitch line.

    Stitch in the ditch - Victory Patterns


    • Since we will be sewing with the right side of the garment facing us, it will be tricky to sew with the pins underneath. To avoid this, carefully transfer the pins from the underside of the garment to the top side.
    • As you transfer the pins, pinch the layers of the fabric together so that you are holding your work in place.
    • Make sure to insert the pin directly into the ditch of the seam, securing the underside of the binding.

    Stitch in the ditch - Victory Patterns


    • Check that the pins have captured the folded binding edge on the underside of the garment.

    Stitch in the ditch - Victory Patterns


    • Place the machine’s needle in the ditch of the seam. Sew slowly and pull the fabric lightly on either side of the needle as you guide it through the ditch. Remove the pins as you approach them.

    Stitch in the ditch - Victory Patterns


    • The finished stitch is invisible on the right side of your garment while capturing the inside folded edge.

     

     

    YOU MAY LIKE:





    1 Response

    Ogo
    Ogo

    June 30, 2022

    Thank you so much for this clear tutorial!

    Leave a comment

    Comments will be approved before showing up.


    Also in Sewing Tutorials

    How to gather fabric
    How to gather fabric

    January 31, 2018

    In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to sew a gather stitch, how to take up the gathers and finally, how to attach the gathered edge to a corresponding piece. This gathering method explains how to sew a gather stitch with three rows of basting, which is suitable for larger gathered edges or for full gathers. This tutorial is taken from the pages of Boundless Style. You can find this tutorial and many others in Boundless Style.

    View full article →

    Fancy Seams tutorial
    Fancy Seams tutorial

    January 31, 2018 1 Comment

    The type of seam that choose to sew can not only make a garment look beautiful from the inside out, but they can also enhance the life of a garment, as well as your pride in what you've made. This little guide will give you a basic rundown on a few seam finishes starting with the basics, and then we'll get into the fancy stuff! I'll give you some pointers as to when to use each seam finish. When you make clothing with beautiful seams, you'll be so much happier wearing it!

    View full article →

    Stabilizing Seams
    Stabilizing Seams

    January 31, 2018

    Some seams need a little extra TLC to prevent them from stretching out and losing its shape, or to give the seam extra durability. Some examples of areas that you would commonly reinforce are armholes, necklines, bias seams, or areas like the shoulder that bear the weight of the garment.

    View full article →