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What Is an Ease Stitch?

An ease stitch is similar to a gathering stitch, but with one key difference: it takes up only a small amount of fabric fullness — so little that it remains invisible in the finished seam. Its purpose is to join two fabric edges of slightly different lengths into a single, smooth seam, without creating visible puckers or gathers.

The longer fabric edge is ease-stitched first to "encourage" it to match the shorter edge, resulting in a clean, flat seam.

When Do You Need an Ease Stitch?

You'll use an ease stitch when sewing:

• Two curved edges of varying lengths together
• A curved or bias edge to a straight edge
• A curved hem
• A set-in sleeve

How to Set Up Your Machine

Before sewing, adjust your machine settings:

• Set your stitch to a straight stitch at 7–8 stitches per inch
• Slightly reduce the upper thread tension to allow the bobbin thread to pull smoothly

Important: Remember to return your machine to its regular tension setting after completing the ease stitch.

Step 2: Pull the bobbin threads Gently pull the bobbin threads from both ends of the ease stitch to draw up the fabric. Distribute the ease evenly along the entire edge.

Step 3: Match the edges Align the eased edge with its corresponding piece, ensuring both edges are now equal in length.

Step 4: Pin the pieces together Pin the pieces together, keeping the ease evenly distributed. At each end of the ease stitch, wrap the tail threads around a pin in a
figure-8. This locks the ease in place and prevents it from pulling out as you sew.

Step 5: Sew the seam With the eased side facing up, sew the seam slowly at the regular 5/8" (1.6 cm) seam allowance. Continue to gently guide the fabric as you sew, keeping the ease evenly distributed to prevent puckers. 

The result: A smooth, flat seam with no visible puckers or gathers.